So you want to go skiiing or snowboarding in the winter? Here are some things you need to know to get started.

The number one thing you should keep in mind is that January (and early February) are great times to go skiing…but you will have just finished the big Winter Break and New Year’s holiday… so both money and nenkyuu will be tight. You can alleviate the money cramp by putting away some money each month starting in the fall. If you can spare 5 man yen a month, then you should be in a good position later. Put it into an envelope or another banking account or something. And for get it’s there until you need to start paying for things.

Hokkaido is a good place to go: Niseko is popular among international tourists. Rusutsu is wonderful and a bit less trafficked. Resort hotels are expensive but have the added benefit of getting you out on the slopes quickly and, if you are renting equipment, letting you keep your equipment between ski days (rather than getting back in the breadline for skis every morning). I recommend a trip to Hokkaido. But be aware that round-trip airfare from Fukuoka is rarely under 5 man(!) yen. Another option for lodging are 民宿 (minshuku–Japanese Inns / boarding houses). Compared to big hotels, these are hard to find (you may need a Japanese-reading friend to do online research for you or get a recommendation from someone). Another option is hitting up Tatami Timeshare (login to AJET’s website first) and find a JET in Hokkaido. Be aware that although buses do exist, you really need a car to see Hokkaido–so your best bet is to tag along with Hokkaido JETs who are planning to go skiing and have a car with some space.

Tottori-ken also is famous for skiing, though I can’t comment on what it’s like.

The Japanese Alps are another option. I’m going to give them a try this year.

For smaller (cheaper) trips, consider Hiroshima-ken. You and some friends can get a weekend skiing there for around 3 man yen each. Travel agents in Fukuoka are good to consult about this. The usual routine is:

THURSDAY: pack.

FRIDAY NIGHT: go to Fukuoka City , get on an overnight bus.

SATURDAY: go skiing starting from 5 or 6 am (it takes awhile to get gear and get oriented). Stay overnight at a ryokan .

SUNDAY: take a shuttle/bus back to the ski area for another day of skiing (finish up around 4 or 5) and then get back on the bus and get home that night.

These small trips are a good way to try your hand at the “other” winter sport (skiing for snowboarders/snowboarding for habitual skiers). I learned the basics of snowboarding in Geihoku, Hiroshima two years ago. If you are taking a huge, expensive trip to Hokkaido, you may be loath to spend one of your (expensive) days falling on your butt. Closer to home, it’s no big deal.

Finally, Kyushu skiing, while not fabulous (I hear) is available. For a trip you can actually drive to, consider Miyazaki ken. They have Gokase, the southernmost natural snow skiing in Japan, but I have heard that the pistes are a bit crowded.

And what article about skiing would forget to mention Tenzan, Saga’s very own ski area? A typical exchange about it goes something like this:

Co-worker: “And you can go skiing on Tenzan!”

You: “Uhhh… in Saga? It’s too warm.”

Co-worker ( a bit defensively/blithely oblivious) “They MAKE the snow! You can go skiing no matter what the weather!”

You: (silently consider the role ground temperature plays in keeping the manmade snow…snow. Ultimately, you decide not to argue about it and just smile and nod thoughtfully.)

–

BOOKING:

Especially if you want to go around the Snow Festival in Hokkaido, BOOK NOW. Things fill up fast. If you are a procrastinator, you can always go on the HAJET (Hokkaido-AJET) annual ski trip. In the past, they have set their deadline in December (yes, December is “procrastinating” when it comes to booking ski trips). They already have a sign-up/inquiry form on their website if you want to take a look. The biggest problem with the HAJET trip is that they only do one day of skiing, and if you are going to Hokkaido, that is just not enough. One option might be to work out your own accommodation and airfare and then go skiing for a couple of days before the event, joining up with them after. Actually, I kind of want to do that now. But no, Jesse, this year it’s Japanese Alps…which will ALSO be kickass. The HAJET trip will usually require a day or two of nenkyuu, so be sure you can handle that. Finally, if you are fond of mutton/lamb, the HAJET trip usually includes an option for a farewell enkai which is almost always ジンギスカン (”Ghengis Khan”– all you can eat mutton yakiniku, veggies). They give you these HUGE bib-apron things. Oh, good stuff!

ALTERNATIVE TRANSPORT:

I don’t recommend busing to Hokkaido. There actually IS a ferry that goes 3 times a week from Fukuoka to the Muroran in the southern part of Hokkaido. It takes a long time, something like 38 hours, and makes one stop in N. Honshu. The length of time it takes is the biggest detractor. Another alternative might be to ferry to Kansai (Osaka, for example) and then take trains the rest of the way up. But be sure to compare prices.

NIGHTLIFE:

Aside from nomihoudai (I don’t drink the night before skiing because of the risk of being dehydrated), another great way to increase your ski trip enjoyment is to go to an onsen. Certain JETs, who shall go unnamed, have been known to sneak into ski resort onsen after a hard day on the slopes. Somehow, the snow outside makes soaking in hot water that much more sugoi.

Make this article better! If you have questions or comments, please use the contact form to send a quick note to me.

Speaking of waterfalls, I went to Mikaeri Waterfall last weekend and the smell of the stream made me long for the next Nanayama Waterfall Climb! Mikaeri Waterfall is so-called because once you see it, you will have to come back.

The next time you are in central Saga Ken (near Ouchi, to be precise), consider giving it a look. You will see a sign for it on Route 203 (between Ouchi and Honmutabe stations)

It’s about 5 km from the sign. You will have to follow a few signs, but it’s not too hard. One of the signs is in kanji, I think, but you can just match the symbol for “waterfall” 滝 (TAKI)

If you go during June, you will arrive for the あじさい　まつり (Hydrangea Festival).

The hydrangea bushes planted along the walking trail make it quite unique. If you are not up for walking, there is a shuttle bus (the first few days of the festival, if I remember.) But you would do better to take the trail. It’s much more relaxing. I was awed by the vastness of the forest around the mountain stream that the waterfall feeds.

Pictures just don’t do it justice. Also, the trail is well-maintained and pretty easy. This is not a difficult hike, and you don’t need special shoes or equipment (though, I wouldn’t advise wearing your heels, as I saw some Japanese girls doing. Silly fashionistas.)

Before and at the end of the trail, you can buy hydrangea plants. The ones at the end of the trail, just before the waterfall are the cheapest. They are 200 yen a pot. The ones at the base of the mountain are between 600 and 1200 yen. They are bigger, though.

It’s possible to drive all the way to the waterfall, but during the festival, the spaces are all full and there are large buses/shuttles on the road. Parking is free just before the village at the foot of the mountain anyway.

Just uphill from the waterfall, behind the rows of potted baby hydrangeas, you will find several jizou, or guardian statues, adorned with colorful aprons. Take a peek up there before you head down!

The festival runs from until 4:00 pm, June 1st ~ June 30th.

Tel. 0955-51-8312 (probably just JP) for more info. 

AMAZING RACE: SAGA Application forms are available here (PDF) or here (Word).

Please note that the race format is subject to change– for example, we may randomly mix teams.

Use the PDF version if you just want to quickly fill in and print the form for delivery or fax.

The Word document can be saved for emailing, but is a little more cumbersome to fill out because you might push stuff around as you type. However, you should be able to save the Word version and email it to

The Tara Mountains are the collective name of the ten or so peaks that form the southwestern border between Nagasaki and Saga prefectures. Though named for Tara-dake (996m), the tallest mountain of this range is actually Kyoga Dake (1076m). Nearby towns and cities include Kashima, Ureshino, and Tara in Saga, and Takaki, Isahaya, Omura, and Higashisonogi in Nagasaki. Route 444 cuts a clear path from Kashima to Omura, providing easy access for the majority of activities described in this travel guide.

Basics

Weather

Weather in the Tara mountains is typical of southern Japan. Spring is warm and often hazy. Summer begins with tsuyu, a.k.a. the rainy season, which usually lasts from June and until mid-July. August and September are hot and humid. Fall is cool and dry, lasting until mid-December. Winters are relatively mild with little or no snow in the lower lying regions. The upper reaches of the Tara mountains however, are often covered in snow. The plus side is that the skies over Kyushu are crisp and clear during these months, making for the best views while hiking. Temperatures throughout the region remain uncomfortably cold until the end of March, when the cherry tree blossoms signal the true start of spring.

Precautions

Leave a note

In 2003, an accomplished alpine climber named Aron Ralston went for a day hike in the canyon lands of southeastern Utah. Given his impressive level of fitness and history of climbing extremely dangerous peaks, he neglected to inform anyone as to where he was going. After all, it was only a day hike. Then a rock fell on his arm, trapping him in a narrow, unfrequented canyon. To his credit, he persevered for a week with little food or water, waiting for help that wasn’t coming, before cutting his arm off at the elbow and escaping. Amazing story, but totally unnecessary. Don’t pull a “Ralston”; leave a note describing the day’s travel plans with a trusted friend or relative.

Emergencies

The valleys and low lying areas of the Tara Mountains are typically without coverage while some ridgelines have a clear strong signal. Ryutosen is almost completely out of range. The paramedics can be reached at 119, the police at 110.

Though forest fires are relatively rare in Japan, they can still happen. Abundant warning signs attest to this very real danger. The fire department can be reached at 119.

People and crime

Japanese hikers and outdoor enthusiasts are some of the greatest people this society has to offer. Most are extremely friendly and are pleased to meet a foreigner with mutual interests. That said, people are people and crime can happen anywhere. Use common sense. Lock car doors before leaving the parking area, back away if someone on the trail proves unnerving, etc.

Dealing with the police

Japanese police can legally stop a foreigner at anytime, with or without reason, to ask for identification. Non-residents will need to show their passport, residents their alien registration card (i.e. gaijin card). Failure to present the appropriate item will result in a major hassle at the very least. Always carry the appropriate documents even when in the sticks.

Garbage

Public garbage cans are rare; most people bring their refuse home. Please do the same.

Animals

Tara Mountain fauna include snakes, small lizards, raccoons (tankuki), rabbits, wild boar (see warning below) and a variety of birds, amphibians, and insects. Unfortunately, there are no deer.

Kyushu is largely free of large dangerous animals: there are no bears here. The one exception may be the inoshishi, or wild boar. Inoshishi are abundant throughout Japan. Adult males can easily grow to over a meter in length and have menacing tusks. Females are also quite large. Though this animal is rarely aggressive unless its young are threatened, an attack would be injurious to say the least. Such an unlikely scenario is most likely to occur between March and July, when the piglets are most dependent upon their mother for protection. Anyone who comes upon a seemingly aggressive wild boar should make lots of noise, throw rocks, and if all else fails, climb a tree.

Insects

Japanese bees don’t seem to be as aggressive as their North American cousins, but they still sting. Of more concern is the giant centipede, known as mukade. These brownish colored insects are seven to thirteen centimeters long and live throughout rural Japan, particularly in forested areas. The bite is extremely painful and often warrants a hospital visit. Always keep an eye out for these guys.

Outdoor Gear

Base Camp in Saga City sells outdoor apparel, camping supplies, climbing and kayaking gear, hiking boots, and guide books. They’re happy to order anything not in stock. It’s located on Route 207 about two blocks west of Kencho (the prefecture’s administrative center) and is open until 8pm most nights of the week.

Activities

The Tara Mountains offer an abundance of things to do for the mildly to the super fit: hiking, camping, backpacking, rock climbing, and swimming. These should all be done at your own risk.

Hiking

Rating system

The intensity of all hikes is rated on the following scale: easy, moderate, difficult, and strenuous. Unfortunately, most fall into the last two categories.

Trail conditions

Trails in Japan tend to go directly up the mountain, rarely employing switch-backs. The result is severe erosion on some routes, especially during and after the rainy season. Ridge line trails can be steep and rocky. Ropes are set up at many places to aid hikers.

Route finding

Because there is no single entity that maintains and regulates hiking routes, trail markers take on a variety of forms: colored ribbon or tape tied to trees, spray painted rocks, traditional signs, and cairn (pile of rocks). Some routes are fairy obvious, others not so. Stay alert while hiking.

Trails descriptions and translations

The two main destinations seem to be Tara and Kyoga Dake, though numerous peaks can be incorporated when hiking to either of these points. The described routes are the author’s personal favorites; many other varieties are possible and are too numerous to list. Feel free to create a customized route.

Relevant place names and landmarks have been translated into romaji to cater to the foreign hiker. However, actual trail signs are in kanji. While the romaji translations are convenient, be sure to cross check all signs with their corresponding points on the hiking map shown below, which is labeled in both romaji and kanji.

Hiking from Saga Prefecture

Nakayama Staircase

• Duration: 2-2.5 hours.
• Starting point and ending point: Nakayama Campground
• Access: Road #252 from either Route 444 outside of Kashima or Route 207 in Tara-cho. Turn off at the sign for the Nanayama Campground and continue to the parking area (“P2” on the map).
• Parking: across from the Tori gate in the camground
• Difficulty: difficult
• Description: The trail begins at the tori gate which stands in front of several cabins. Follow the stone staircase, rumored to be built by monks several hundred years ago, as it climbs the mountain. There will be periods of flat dirt trail followed by more stairs (don’t worry, it’s not so bad!). Eventually, there will be a crossroads with several colorful signs. Continuing the stair theme, turn left and keep climbing. After about 20 minutes you’ll reach the peak of Tara Dake. Double back to return. The 300 year old Roku Jizo, or “Six Stone Buddhas” add a sense of history to Tara Dake and are worth the 15 minute detour. They can be reached from where the Tara Dake staircase begins by following the sign at that junction (in English for once).

Nakayama Loop

• Duration: 3 hours
• Starting point and ending point: Nakayama Campground
• Access: Road #252 from either Route 444 outside of Kashima or Route 207 in Tara-cho. Turn off at the sign for the Nanayama Campground and continue to the parking area (“P2” on the map).
• Parking: across from the tori gate in the campground
• Difficulty: moderate
• Description: Facing the tori gate, turn right and follow the road to where it is chained. Climb over this barrier and turn left on the first logging road (cement). After about ten minutes there will be a tree marked with red tape on the right side of the road. The trail begins here and cuts across the same road several times as it snakes up the mountains. Eventually, the route heads away from the road before coming to a four way trail intersection. Turn left here. 40 minutes away sits Sasaga Dake, possibly the most beautiful peak in the Tara mountains. Skirt the steep rock face until it ends. To the left of a small rock face there is a barely visible trail leading to Sasaga’s top. After summiting, return to the main trail and follow it as it runs parallel to the ridgeline. In another thirty minutes the trail meets the tori gate and stone staircase of Tara Dake. If desired, continue on to that peak’s summit. Otherwise, turn left and take the stone staircase trail back to the Nakayama campground.

Nakayama to Kyoga Dake Loop

• Duration: 3-4 hours
• Starting point and ending point: Nakayama Campground
• Access: Road #252 from either Route 444 outside of Kashima or Route 207 in Tara-cho. Turn off at the sign for the Nakayama Campground and continue to the parking area (“P2” on the map).
• Parking: across from the tori gate in the campground
• Difficulty: difficult
• Description: Use the same directions as for the “Nakayama Loop” hike (see above), but turn right at the trail junction. There will be signs for Kyoga Dake. Follow this spotty trail to the summit, but be sure to take the left fork when the trail splits. This is far from obvious, though someone has scratched the kanji for Kyoga Dake into a rock where the trail forks. The right fork also leads to Kyoga Dake but takes longer. After summiting, return to the aforementioned trail junction and once again follow the directions for the “Nakayama Loop” hike over Sasaga Dake and back to the Nakayama parking area.

Hiratani-Kyoga Dake Route

• Duration: 3 hours
• Starting point and ending point: Hiratani Campground
• Access: From Kashima take the 444 towards Omura. There’s a large parking area (“P1” on the map) after the onsen and nature center but before the tunnel. The trail starts here.
• Parking: road side parking lot
• Difficulty: difficult
• Description: After parking, walk up the road parallel to Route 444 in the direction of the tunnel. Turn left at the trail sign. Continue straight at the first fork. The trail will follow a small creek and before coming to a fire road. Cross the road and continue into the pine forest. This section of the trail is steep but is luckily quite short. At the top of the hill turn right and follow the ridgeline to the summit. Several rocky outcroppings require ropes but the trail is otherwise mild. It takes about an hour to reach Kyoga Dake. On a clear day the views from this peak are spectacular. Hikers are encouraged to sign the notebook found in the summit’s metal box. Double back to return to the parking lot.

Hiking from Nagasaki Prefecture

Hachodani to Tara Dake

• Duration: 2-2.5 hours.
• Starting point and ending point: Parking Area #3 (“P3” on the map)
• Access: Route 444 westbound from Kashima, eastbound from Omura. After the dam, look for the signs for “Kuroki Valley” and make the appropriate turn. This is Route 252 and it runs the length of the valley. At a certain point, the road will fork at a white sign with red kanji characters and a small garbage collection area (cage) behind it. Take the right fork and drive past the wooden hikers’ hut (yamagoya) on the left hand side of the road. Continue on this road until arriving at Parking Area #3.
• Parking: Parking Area #3
• Difficulty: moderate
• Description: This relatively short but rewarding hike begins at the chained road adjacent to the parking area. Follow this logging road for about fifteen minutes until coming upon an old bathroom. This is Hachodani. Turn right off the road and follow the trail up the mountain. After following a creek for about twenty minutes, turn right at the trail junction. This path will pass the Kinsenji mountain hut (the bird watching is reportedly good here) before it reaches the Tara Dake staircase. Continue upward for fifteen minutes to reach the summit. Double back to return.

Hachodani to Kyoga Dake Loop

• Duration: 3-4 hours
• Starting point and ending point: Parking Area 3 (“P3” on the map)
• Access: see directions for Hachodani to Kyoga Dake hike
• Parking: Parking Area #3
• Difficulty: difficult/strenuous
• Description: Follow the same directions as for the Hachodani to Kyoga Dake hike but instead of turning right after the bathrooms, continue straight ahead on the road until it narrows into a proper trail. This lovely path runs parallel to a series of waterfall-fed pools for the first hour or so. When it tops out at a ridgeline junction, turn left (this is the same trail junction mentioned in the “Nakayama Loop” hike description). Follow this path to the summit of Kyoga Dake. The trail picks up again on the opposite side of the mountaintop and follows the ridgeline before descending into a sparse forest. It eventually becomes a dry creek bed which can be steep in places; overall, it’s a pretty a strenuous descent. After the trail leaves the creek bed and becomes a simple forest trail, take the left fork where the trail splits (shown as a dotted line on the map) until it ends at a road which leads back to Parking Area #3.

Gokahara Dake Hike

• Duration: 3-4 hours
• Starting point and ending point: Gokahara trail head (see map)
• Access: follow the same directions as for all hikes beginning in the Kuroki Valley, but turn right at the first fork after the hikers’ hut (see map). Continue until the road ends at a T intersection and turn left onto the narrow gravel road. There’s a small grassy area immediately after this turn on the left hand side (“P4” on the map). A sign for the trail is a little way up the road.
• Parking: grassy area described above
• Difficulty: difficult
• Description: The trail begins at a river then enters a thick pine forest. Stay on this trail as it passes numerous waterfalls and rocky outcroppings. A section of the trail follows an old logging road but is otherwise a proper hiking route. After about an hour or so the trail will start to climb to the ridgeline, following a dry creek bed. Trail markers are spotty here; keep an eye out for the tape but generally just head uphill. At the top of the ridge turn left and continue to the summit. Though its covered with satellite dishes, the views from Gokahara Dake are decent. The trail picks up again on the right side of the summit viewing area and descends steeply. Continue over the summit of Nakadake (no sign) until reaching another trail junction. Turn left here and descend to a recently asphalted logging road. This point is called Hachodani on the map. Turn left again at this road and take it to Parking Area #3 where the road continues (left). A 15 minute walk will lead back to the original fork in the road (see access). Turn left at this corner and continue to the grassy parking area.

Dai Mo Mi no Ki (Big Momi Tree)

• Duration: 90 minutes-two hours
• Starting point and ending point: Gokahara trail head (see map)
• Access: Same as for Gokahara Hike
• Parking: same as for Gokahara Hike
• Difficulty: moderate
• Description: Follow the trail for Gokahara. After about 10 minutes there will be a sign in kanji on the left side of the trail for Dai Mo Mi no Ki. Turn left here and follow the tape. Be advised that this trail is rarely used and can be difficult to follow. The only markers are the random pieces of tape around a tree branch, often faded to the point of being hardly visible. There is also a dicey creek crossing. Despite these challenges, this short but adventurous trail is not especially strenuous and the Dai Mo Mi Tree is well worth the effort. Double back to return.

Other Hikes

Kori Dake

• Duration: 90 minutes-two hours
• Starting point and ending point: Bathroom along the road to Nodake.
• Access: follow the same directions as for the Nodake Climbing Area (see climbing section) but continue past Nodake for about seven minutes. There will be a public bathroom on the right hand side with a small gravel parking area in front of it.
• Parking: In front of the bathroom.
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Description: The trail begins at the bathroom and soon climbs a flight of steps to a power line corridor. Continue past these and into the forest until the trail comes to a logging road. Turn right here and follow the road as it narrows into a proper trail. Stay on this trail for approximately forty five minutes to reach the grassy summit, which has quality views of Omura Bay. Return by double backing or look for an alternate trail down the western side of the summit. The latter winds down the side of the mountain until it forks. A one minute detour straight ahead leads to a rocky outcrop at least eighty meters in height (there’s potential for turning this into a multi-pitch sport climb as the rock is high quality). Turn left at the previously mentioned fork to get back to the original trail and then turn right to return to the gravel parking area.

Ryutosen Waterfall hike

• Duration: 30 minutes to 1 hour; it’s really up to the hiker
• Starting point and ending point: From the Upper Area of Ryutosen start/end at the staircase. From the Lower Area, start/end at the parking area.
• Upper area access: From Route 34 in Ureshino, turn left on Route 6. Stay on this for about a 20 minute drive through the countryside. Turn right at the school (it’s the only school around at that point). Follow the road as it curves to the right. You will see a brown farmhouse on the right. Turn left immediately after/at this house. This road will take you through some lovely grass lands, most of which belong to the Japanese Self Defense Forces. Follow the road pass the military barracks. Turn left at the tea farm, following the signs for Ikoi no Hiroba. Stay on this road (ignore the smaller turn offs). After about two minutes, there will be a sign on the right hand side of the road, marked Ryutosen, and a staircase that leads down to the river.
• Lower area access: From either Ureshino or Omura take the 34 towards Higashisonogi town. Turn left/right on Route 190 and take this road until it ends at a parking lot.
• Parking: In the Upper Area, park at the top of the staircase. For the Lower Area, park in the lot where the road ends.
• Difficulty: Sometimes slippery but otherwise easy.
• Description: This short hike follows a boulder-strewn river and its many deep pools as it snakes through a verdant ravine. If a longer hike is desired, consider following the scenic road past Lower Area parking lot to where the land opens up. There are excellent swimming possibilities at Ryutosen from summer to fall, and several local crags are climbable year round (see respective sections for details). A somen noodle shop with river views is located at the Lower Area parking lot. It’s open during the summer months though operating hours are far from consistent.

Backpacking

It’s unclear whether or not backpacking is technically allowed in the Tara Mountains, though that shouldn’t deter anyone. Japanese hikers are more likely to be impressed than upset over such feats, and cars should be fine parked over night. At any rate, it’s definitely not popular as all of the hikes can be done in a day. This doesn’t mean that several trails couldn’t be strung together into a longer route and accomplished over two days. Loops options are definitely possible. Through-hikes from Nagasaki to Saga are an option, though two cars would be needed (a bus is an inconvenient but possible alternative). Be sure to bring a water purifier and avoid making a campfire.

Camping

Like backpacking, roadside or “car” camping isn’t very popular. It too may be technically illegal, though no one seems to mind. Possible make shift campsites include any of the parking areas, the grassy parks along the banks of the Kuroki river, the park at the Nodake dam, and just about anywhere a tent will fit. As there is a nearby Japanese military base that occasionally hosts live fire exercises, camping in the upper Ryutosen area (see Ryutosen climbing/swimming/hiking section) is not recommended.

Saga prefecture has two proper campgrounds: Hirtani and Nakayama. Both have cabins and other amenities, but neither are open for more than a few weeks each summer. Campgrounds in Nagasaki include one in the Kuroki Valley and another that is a twenty minutes past the Nodake Climbing Area. These (and most campgrounds in Japan) tend to be overpriced and family orientated. Save the cash and avoid these traps.

Rock climbing

Warning: Climbing is inherently dangerous. Always climb with a partner. Climb at your own risk.

The Tara Mountains are blessed with two of the best rock climbing crags in western Japan. Both are less than an hour’s drive from Kashima and less than 30 minutes from Omura. Route maps for these and other Kyushu climbing areas can be purchased at Base Camp (see details in “Basics”).

Etiquette Warning: In Japan, climbers often leave gear on the wall for days or weeks at a time. This is not “booty” and should not be taken. Other climbers would view this as stealing, plain and simple. However, gear can be removed should a climber want to red point a certain route. Put removed gear in a sheltered but visible spot so that the owner will find it when he or she returns.

Nodake

• Location: Nagasaki-ken near the Nodake Dam.
• Directions (Saga Prefecture): From Kashima, take Route 444 towards Omura. About 10 minutes after the tunnel, there will be a large reservoir and a pale green suspension bridge. Turn right before this bridge and follow the black-top road up. Nodake will be on your right after a seven or eight minute drive. Park cars on the left side of the road.
• Directions (Nagasaki Prefecture): From Omura, take Route 444 towards Kashima. After the pale green suspension bridge, turn left. At this point, follow the same directions as described above for coming from Saga.
• Number of routes: About 50 in solid use, with an additional 20 that need substantial cleaning.
• Shade cover: most of the 5.12s are exposed, the rest are relatively sheltered.
• Climbing season: year round
• Climb during the rain: Yes, though if it’s been raining for several days the drip from up mountain will saturate many routes.
• Water available: Yes.

Ryutosen (Lower Area: Chushajou and Mannaka)

• Location: Nagasaki near Hagashisonogi town.
• Directions: From either Ureshino or Omura take Route 34 towards Higashisonogi town. Turn left/right on Route 190. After about five to seven minutes there will be a pair of trees marked with red tape on the left side of the road. Be watchful as it is difficult to spot the first time around. This is the trail to Mannaka Area. There are spaces to parallel park here. Continue down the road to where it ends at a parking lot and noodle shop (open only in summers). Chushajou Area is across the river from here.
• Number of routes: Mannaka has 75 routes listed but only about 55 that are climbable. Chushajou has 33 but maybe half are overgrown.
• Shade cover: About 50%.
• Climbing season: year round, though the crimpy nature of the holds makes winter climbing painful. Also, the summer mosquitoes are fierce.
• Climb during the rain: No
• Water available: No

Ryutosen (Upper Area: Hashi and Gakkou)

• Location: Nagasaki Prefecture between Ureshino and Hagashisonogi towns.
• Directions (Saga Prefecture): Follow the directions from “Ryutosen River Trail” (see hiking section) but continue past the staircase for the Ryutosen waterfall and across the bridge. Immediately after the bridge is a small monument. Park here. Follow the trail from behind the monument through a pine forest. The trail splits at a large but broken rock face; the right fork leads to Gakkou Area, the left across the river to Hashi Area.
• Directions (Nagasaki Prefecture): The easiest way to get here from Nagasaki-ken is to follow the directions to the Lower Area and then hike up the river trail. This is a bit strenuous when shouldering a pack of climbing gear, but the trail is much more beautiful and faster than driving the slow and complicated route around the entire ravine.
• Number of routes: Hashi Area has about 15 solid routes while Gakkou Area contains 10.
• Shade cover: The Hashi Area is exposed, especially after noon. Most of the Gakkou Area has partial or full shade cover.
• Climbing season: year round, though AM climbing is recommended at Hashi Area during summer.
• Climb during the rain: No
• Water available: No

Swimming

Warning: Swimming in rivers can be dangerous. There are no life guards. Swim at your own risk.

Many of the creeks and rivers have pools deep enough for swimming. Most are accessible only by hiking. Do not swim in any of the reservoirs.

Ryutosen

There are excellent swimming possibilities throughout the Ryutosen area. All are along the Ryutosen River Trail (see “Hiking”). The Ryutosen waterfall, from which the ravine gets its name, is 18 meters in length. The 23 meter deep pool is surrounded by a low rock floor; perfect for diving. Down river is another deep pool. This one is surrounded by large rocks. It’s not uncommon (nor dangerous given its depth) to see local high school boys jumping or diving from these launching pads. Further down river are still more deep pools. Before attempting any of these “jumps”, it might be a good idea to scout out the pool for any hidden rocks. Be especially mindful of this when swimming during or after the rainy season has ended.

See “Upper Area directions” in “Hiking: Ryutosen.”

Onsens

Saga’s Hiratani Onsen (0954.64.2321) is on Route 444 about a minute before the tunnel. Entrance is 600 yen, towels 200 yen. It’s open everyday from 8am until 9pm. They also rent ryokan-style rooms which include traditional Japanese meals and unlimited bathing at their onsen. Expect such lodging to be expensive. Call for details or to make a reservation.

There’s an onsen located near the Mannaka Climbing Area of Ryutosen (see climbing section for details). Operating hours are spotty. After turning off Route 34 on to Route 190, look for a barn-like building perched on a hillside off to the right. There’s a large red onsen symbol on side of it (oval with rising steam above). Turn right at the cement bridge and continue up the mountain towards the building. There are a few signs for the onsen in Japanese along the way.

Notes

You can download a PDF version of this article (20 pages, 4.71 megabytes) for easy printing.

All maps for this article were complied by Adam McMahon

During a recent school lunch, I made the mistake of assuming that people who had lived in Saga their entire lives would know a thing or two about their home. So, I asked a simple question: What is the tallest mountain in Saga? After a 20 minute discussion and still no answers (though much amusement in actually being acknowledged as a sentient being for once), I decided to ask the one infallible source in the school. Sure enough, the social studies teacher had the answer. “Kyoga Dake izu da to-re-sto,” he said proudly in bastardized English that would make the Queen weep.

At 1076 meters (app. 3530 feet), southern Saga’s Kyoga Dake is indeed the biggest boy on the block. While Kyoga Dake’s peak is actually in Nagasaki, part of the base is in Saga, so it is technically ours too. Geographical arguments aside, Kyoga Dake affords hikers a strenuous but rewarding approach to one of the best views in Kyushu. Like most hiking trails in Japan, it tends to climb steeply up the mountain, rarely making use of switchbacks. The advantage is that the trail reaches the top more quickly. The disadvantage is that it’s extremely hard on the legs, especially the knees and ankles, and physically challenging as well. If you have bad knees or are out of shape, you might want to sit this one out. Otherwise, pace yourself and enjoy.

In order to be concise and organized, I have divided the trail into four legs. While the trail is not always incredibly well marked, it is fairly difficult to get lost. The general rule of thumb is to “go up” and follow the markers, which are sometimes red tape, other times blue ribbon, and more often than not, out-of-character spray painted rocks. Marvel at the tackiness that is modern Japan. Let’s hike.

Parking lot to the fire road

Time: 20-25 min

After parking, walk up the ramp so that you are overlooking the road. The trail begins on your left, next to a sign displaying a yellow bird. Continue straight, past the fork that leads to the campground. You’ll be following a trail overlooking a river that snakes through a pine forest for most of this leg. If you look carefully, you may be able to spot the ruins of tsumiyaki, circular buildings made out of piled stones that stand about 1.5 meters high and three meters across. Until about forty years ago, these dwellings were used to make charcoal and were occasionally lived in. Continue through the forest and up the creek bed to the gravel fire road.

Fire road to the ridge line

Time: 15 minutes

This is without a doubt the most physically intense part of the hike. The trail climbs steeply here through a rock strewn pine forest. Many of these rocks are loose, especially after a rain, so watch your step. There are also a number of exposed roots which love to trip hikers. Threatening them, even in Japanese, will do no good. Just watch your step.

Start of the ridgeline to the Buddha head

Time: 20 minutes

From this point to the apex, the trail runs on or parallel to Kyoga Dake’s ridgeline. I have divided it into two legs for explanation purposes. This first part is sometimes level and sometimes not, with steep grades over certain rock outcroppings. There’s a great vantage point from a flat rock that I have dubbed the “Eagle’s Perch” along this section, but why degrade the panoramic view from the very top with this little spoiler? Test your self-control by trying not to look anywhere but down and immediately ahead of yourself until reaching the summit. You’ll be well rewarded for your efforts.

Buddha head to the summit

Time: 40 minutes

Inside the trunk of a hollowed out of a large tree, sits a white Buddha head. I have no idea who put this here, but it does add to the tranquility of the mountain; very Shinto-like at this point. This is the start of the final trek of our journey and my favorite part of the hike. Lined with some of the biggest trees I have seen outside of temples, this leg gives a glimpse of what Japan’s nature was like before the industrialists destroyed it in an orgy of needless public works projects and unprofitable cedar plantations. It’s also the most adventuresome section of the trail, with ropes employed at numerous rocky gully crossings and over some of the steeper sections. Be careful and keep your eye on the trail. With a little luck, you might make it to the end in one piece.

Summit

Congrats! You are now walking on the roof of Saga. Look east, taking in the Ariake Sea and the hills of Kumamoto and Kagoshima beyond. A glance south will give you a post card picture shot of Unzen Dake, a semi-active volcano in Nagasaki-ken. Towards the West is Omura-shi, adjacent to the Sea of Japan, and further out are numerous peninsulas and islands. Though the northern view is slightly blocked by other mountains, a trained eye will be able to spot the plains of Saga-ken in the distance and maybe even Mt. Tenzan.

Descending

Coming down this mountain is faster and more dangerous than going up. Most hiking injuries occur while moving down hill. To repeat myself, watch your step, especially during leg two, and take it easy on the knees.

The 411

From Route 34 in Kohoku, turn south on Route 207. Drive through Shiroishi into Kashima and turn right on Route 444 (about 10 minutes from the Shiota River bridge). Continue on the 444 for about fifteen minutes until you see the “Nature Center” building. The Kyoga Dake parking lot is on the left after this building but before the tunnel.

Shade cover: 90 percent

Rating (easy, moderate, difficult, strenuous, God Help Me!): Strenuous

Time needed: I have done it in a little over two hours, but that wasn’t exactly fun. Allow yourself three to three-and-a-half hours just to be sure.

Water available: Yes. Fill up at a nearby roadside spring before parking.

Hot as hell and the A/C is feeling less than adequate? You could go hang out at the local Youme Town and rot under the fluorescent glow of consumerism, or you could hitch a ride to Ryutosen. Located between Ureshino and Omura-shi, Nagasaki, Ryutosen boasts an 18-meter high waterfall (minus the patented Japanese cement job) which cascades into a pool that reportedly measures 23 meters in depth. I’m not sure exactly how deep it is, but I do know you can dive from the water’s edge without fear of un-doing thousands of dollars worth of pre-pubescent orthodontic work. Not up for diving or even swimming? Then just relax on the stone floor that encircles the water’s edge.

Is the waterfall a bit to tranquil for you? Wander about 90 meters downstream and behold a second deep pool surrounded by rocks of various heights. This is the place for those seeking adventure, the place where the men are separated from the boys. Start with the rope swing and work your way up. The “jumps” range from about four to ten meters. The jump next to the staircase, which requires a running start, is a personal favorite and is highly recommended to anyone out there who hasn’t felt alive in years.

A word of caution: People have died at Ryutosen. In June of 2004, A U.S. serviceman fell to his death while trying to climb the cliff along the waterfall. I’ve seen others successfully do this climb and the subsequent jump, but do so at your own discretion and risk. Also, never swim alone. Duh.

A word of false caution: There are numerous signs along the approach to the waterfall that say swimming is prohibited. I wouldn’t worry about this, as enforcement seems to be non-existent against both Japanese and foreigners. The reason they give for not swimming is that “the water temperature is too low”. In other words, swimming here equals hypothermia. Unless you’re stupid enough to go swimming in the dead of winter, I wouldn’t give a second thought to this preposterous warning. Enjoy yourself.

Getting there

From Route 34 in Ureshino:

1. Take a left at Route 6. You will stay on this for about a 20 minute drive through the countryside. Marvel at the Japanese cement work.
2. Eventually, you will see a school. Turn right here.
3. Follow the road as it curves to the right.
4. You will see a brown farmhouse on your right. Turn left right after/at this house.
5. This road will take you through some lovely grasslands, most of which belong to the Japanese Self Defense Forces. Follow the road.
6. Turn left at the tea farm, following the signs for “Ikoi no Hiroba”. Stay on this road (ignore the smaller turn offs).
7. After about two minutes, you’ll see a sign for Ryutosen spelled incorrectly as “Rytosen.”

You’ve made it! Park your car and walk down the stairs to what will hopefully be a wonderful experience.

Most rock climbing areas in Kyushu offer bolted sport routes typically one pitch in length. For those living in Saga-ken, there are several rock climbing areas that are easily accessible. With the exception of the rainy season or dead of winter, you can climb all year. Japanese climbers are generally sociable and safety conscious. Climbing gear can be purchased at Base Camp in Saga City (west of kencho on Route 207).

Nodake

Nodake is located in Nagasaki-ken, between the city of Omura (Nagasaki-ken) and Kashima (Saga-ken). A small mountain road off Route 444 provides access. Nodake has routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. The biggest concentration of climbs is in the 5.11 range. All routes are bolted and the rock is generally of good quality.

Ryutosen

Ryutosen is located in Nagasaki-ken. It’s only a 20-minute drive from the town of Ureshino. It’s another sport climbing area with a concentration of difficult 5.11 and 5.12 climbs.

Taku High School

Taku High School has an outdoor climbing wall as well as an indoor bouldering gym. Used mostly by the school’s climbing club, the wall is, however, open to the public free of charge on Wednesday evenings. You’ll need to bring your own rope.

Azumaya

Azumaya is a small climbing area with a dozen short routes. Most of the routes are characterized by dime ledges that require precise edging and painful crimping. It’s close to anyone living in eastern Saga.

Hyugami

Hyugami is located in Fukuok-ken, near the border with Oita-ken. It’s about 25 kilometers from the town of Yame on Route 442. Hyugami has several distinct climbing areas consisting of single and multi-pitch sport routes, slabs and aid routes (fixed pro). There’s an abandoned campsite that climbers use to spend the night.

Other

There are other climbing areas in Oita-ken (Honjo, Hachimenzan), Fukuoka-ken (Hiraodai), Miyazaki-ken (Hokodake, Hiezan) and Kagoshima-ken.

Coming from Michigan, U.S.A., which is surrounded by the Great Lakes, I’m a fresh-water kind of guy. So if you are hot and bothered (you know what I mean) in the summer, why not grab a few friends and head to one of these lovely little natural swimming pools.

Note: You’ll need a car or to know someone who is willing to chauffeur you around to get to either of these places. If you don’t have either, well, there’s always your shower.

Obuchi Mebuchi

Great big rocks to sit on and soak up the sun. A big pool perfect for swimming in, and you can jump off the rocks (or the bridge) for a little excitement. Generally no one but other foreigners are found swimming here.

About 20 minutes drive north of Saga City’s center. Off the Yamato expressway exit, head north on the 263 towards Mitsuse town. You’ll want to cross a bridge to the left and continue north on the 323 towards Fuji village. There should be a sign before you get to a tunnel for Obuchi mebuchi. There’s parking there.

Nanayama

Water quality should usually be a bit nicer at this beautiful river. A great place for a swim and also for a good hike. There’s a lot more shade here. Lots of different waterholes to try and one has a great rope swing. Many of Nanayama’s school kids swim here.

A 15-minute drive east of Karatsu. From Hamatama beach, get on the 323 and head to Nanayama. Turn right at the one light in town and immediately veer to the left of the post office. Continue straight until you see a small restaurant (with Bass on tap!) called Funny Nanayama and turn right in front of the restaurant. At your first chance, turn left and drive up this narrow road. Cross a very narrow bridge and there will be a parking lot on the left.

A different way of getting to know your area is to hop on a bicycle and explore the country roads outside of your town. Get off the main roads, find those small farmers’ roads and get lost for an hour.

You will find yourself surrounded by fresh air, space and beautiful rice or wheat fields (depending on the season). It’s a perfect way to exercise, explore, empty your mind and relax at the same time. You can do it on any kind of bike, and there’s no need to be an athlete either.

And if you really enjoy it and want to get into it, buy maps at the 100 yen shop and go further and higher into the mountains. It’s very beautiful and worth the sweat. Fall and spring are the best seasons for cycling here.

There are hard times to come when you live in a foreign country and must keep active to stay balanced and happy. Cycling is one amongst hundreds of activities that you can try.

Aso, which lies in Kumamoto Prefecture about two to three hours away from Saga Prefecture, is one of the biggest active craters in the world. Most people go see the huge and impressive active crater and then drive home missing out on the whole area surrounding the crater.

The area surrounding Mount Aso’s crater is big and diverse and offers all kinds of hikes and/or walks. There are many trails labeled with yellow, white or red arrows on rocks. Keep your eyes on big rocks and look for the arrows which might lead you to some red, rocky, steep hills for a climb or green rolling hills for an easy stroll. You will discover amazing rock formations, beautiful views, hidden little craters and maybe even some cows. Take a chance and wonder off the beaten track!