Karatsu Kunchi
Karatsu Kunchi is easily one of the best festivals in Saga-ken, maybe even in the world. Well, I can’t really support that, but suffice it to say that I like it. There is a feeling of excitement that emanates from every karatsu-jin in the last few weeks of October. Since the dying embers of summer they have been practicing the flute or the drum in the streets of the old center every night. They have been counting down day by day to the most important day of their year. They have plenty of beer, shochu and sake stored away so that they will not run out in this time of great need. They have prepared huge feasts, enough to feed their extended family five times over. They have been dreamily remembering the excesses of the year before. They have thinking about Karatsu Kunchi!
The first night opens up after nightfall as the 14 hikiyama, or floats, are dragged through the streets of central Karatsu. The streets are packed, people squished together like sardines. People come from all over Kyushu to see this. There are games to play and countless food stalls. A visit to the shrine is a good way to start the evening. It is a nice little one, heavily decorated, where you can purify yourself with holy water; buy a lucky charm; throw five yen, ring the bell and make a wish; or even have the future year foretold.
The hikiyama themselves are a wonder to behold as they are dragged past at high speed, executing sharp turns, with the ropes pulled by tiny children at the front and the gregarious drunk men at the back, and children are precariously perched, playing music, on the hikiyama itself. Each of the fourteen is in the care of the inhabitants of the 14 oldest parts of Karatsu. These hikiyama used to be changed every year, but about 200 years ago they decided on certain designs for each area and have stuck to them. There are lions, helmets, fish, dragons, cockerels. The one which is unquestionably the best is Kinjishi, the golden lion, the float of Honmachi, resplendent and awe inspiring. As they make their way through the city the cry of “enya enya“ is shouted by the very drunk men pulling the floats to cheer themselves on and by the very drunk crowd for them to redouble their efforts. When you come, why not join in! This continues well into the night.
I’m not sure what happens on the following morning. From my experience, mainly pain. Lots of pain. Kunchi hangovers are some of the worse of the year. I remember hearing the music and the shouting so I suppose they are pulling the hikiyama through the streets from early on, but I couldn’t say for sure. If you feel like a small gnome is trying to punch his way out of your head, why not try the traditional Honmachi Biru Breakfast. Fry some eggs, eat them with toast while downing lots of orange juice, and collapse back on the bed swearing you will never drink again.
Of course this oath is usually broken by the afternoon as you are invited from house to house to partake in the aforementioned feasts. The Karatsu people will open their houses and hearts to you, and only ask that for all the food you eat and drink you quaff, that you make small talk with whatever Japanese you may have.
Also, in the afternoon all the hikiyama are drawn up to a point near the beach and lined up. This is a fantastic photo opportunity, all these fearsome creatures side by side. This day is a national holiday too, so no worries about taking nenkyu. You can also take some time out to chill on the beach if the weather is good.
On the third day, the end comes. Exhausted by days of alcohol abuse and shouting at the top of their lungs, the hikiyama pullers and guardians drag them back to the museum next to the shrine, taking part in goodbye ceremonies. The very next day, the schoolchildren will write on their blackboards at school “362 days left until Kunchi.”
I’d just like to add a quick note. If you do go to Kunchi, remember that you are the guests of the generous people of Karatsu, so please be friendly, pay your bills in restaurants and bars, don’t get in fights, don’t make fun of any of the ridiculous vans you will see around and don’t complain that it wasn’t as good as you thought it would be. Bar that, anything goes. Thank you.