On the Roof of Saga: An Ascent of Kyoga Dake
During a recent school lunch, I made the mistake of assuming that people who had lived in Saga their entire lives would know a thing or two about their home. So, I asked a simple question: What is the tallest mountain in Saga? After a 20 minute discussion and still no answers (though much amusement in actually being acknowledged as a sentient being for once), I decided to ask the one infallible source in the school. Sure enough, the social studies teacher had the answer. “Kyoga Dake izu da to-re-sto,” he said proudly in bastardized English that would make the Queen weep.
At 1076 meters (app. 3530 feet), southern Saga’s Kyoga Dake is indeed the biggest boy on the block. While Kyoga Dake’s peak is actually in Nagasaki, part of the base is in Saga, so it is technically ours too. Geographical arguments aside, Kyoga Dake affords hikers a strenuous but rewarding approach to one of the best views in Kyushu. Like most hiking trails in Japan, it tends to climb steeply up the mountain, rarely making use of switchbacks. The advantage is that the trail reaches the top more quickly. The disadvantage is that it’s extremely hard on the legs, especially the knees and ankles, and physically challenging as well. If you have bad knees or are out of shape, you might want to sit this one out. Otherwise, pace yourself and enjoy.
In order to be concise and organized, I have divided the trail into four legs. While the trail is not always incredibly well marked, it is fairly difficult to get lost. The general rule of thumb is to “go up” and follow the markers, which are sometimes red tape, other times blue ribbon, and more often than not, out-of-character spray painted rocks. Marvel at the tackiness that is modern Japan. Let’s hike.
Parking lot to the fire road
Time: 20-25 min
After parking, walk up the ramp so that you are overlooking the road. The trail begins on your left, next to a sign displaying a yellow bird. Continue straight, past the fork that leads to the campground. You’ll be following a trail overlooking a river that snakes through a pine forest for most of this leg. If you look carefully, you may be able to spot the ruins of tsumiyaki, circular buildings made out of piled stones that stand about 1.5 meters high and three meters across. Until about forty years ago, these dwellings were used to make charcoal and were occasionally lived in. Continue through the forest and up the creek bed to the gravel fire road.
Fire road to the ridge line
Time: 15 minutes
This is without a doubt the most physically intense part of the hike. The trail climbs steeply here through a rock strewn pine forest. Many of these rocks are loose, especially after a rain, so watch your step. There are also a number of exposed roots which love to trip hikers. Threatening them, even in Japanese, will do no good. Just watch your step.
Start of the ridgeline to the Buddha head
Time: 20 minutes
From this point to the apex, the trail runs on or parallel to Kyoga Dake’s ridgeline. I have divided it into two legs for explanation purposes. This first part is sometimes level and sometimes not, with steep grades over certain rock outcroppings. There’s a great vantage point from a flat rock that I have dubbed the “Eagle’s Perch” along this section, but why degrade the panoramic view from the very top with this little spoiler? Test your self-control by trying not to look anywhere but down and immediately ahead of yourself until reaching the summit. You’ll be well rewarded for your efforts.
Buddha head to the summit
Time: 40 minutes
Inside the trunk of a hollowed out of a large tree, sits a white Buddha head. I have no idea who put this here, but it does add to the tranquility of the mountain; very Shinto-like at this point. This is the start of the final trek of our journey and my favorite part of the hike. Lined with some of the biggest trees I have seen outside of temples, this leg gives a glimpse of what Japan’s nature was like before the industrialists destroyed it in an orgy of needless public works projects and unprofitable cedar plantations. It’s also the most adventuresome section of the trail, with ropes employed at numerous rocky gully crossings and over some of the steeper sections. Be careful and keep your eye on the trail. With a little luck, you might make it to the end in one piece.
Summit
Congrats! You are now walking on the roof of Saga. Look east, taking in the Ariake Sea and the hills of Kumamoto and Kagoshima beyond. A glance south will give you a post card picture shot of Unzen Dake, a semi-active volcano in Nagasaki-ken. Towards the West is Omura-shi, adjacent to the Sea of Japan, and further out are numerous peninsulas and islands. Though the northern view is slightly blocked by other mountains, a trained eye will be able to spot the plains of Saga-ken in the distance and maybe even Mt. Tenzan.
Descending
Coming down this mountain is faster and more dangerous than going up. Most hiking injuries occur while moving down hill. To repeat myself, watch your step, especially during leg two, and take it easy on the knees.
The 411
From Route 34 in Kohoku, turn south on Route 207. Drive through Shiroishi into Kashima and turn right on Route 444 (about 10 minutes from the Shiota River bridge). Continue on the 444 for about fifteen minutes until you see the “Nature Center” building. The Kyoga Dake parking lot is on the left after this building but before the tunnel.
Shade cover: 90 percent
Rating (easy, moderate, difficult, strenuous, God Help Me!): Strenuous
Time needed: I have done it in a little over two hours, but that wasn’t exactly fun. Allow yourself three to three-and-a-half hours just to be sure.
Water available: Yes. Fill up at a nearby roadside spring before parking.