Yamato

Kenkoland. If you haven’t been there, you’ve never really bathed. This relatively new onsen complex includes an outdoor bath, a simulated waterfall, one-person jacuzzis, milk baths, tea baths, wine baths and massage. It also has a video game room, a movie room and a few restaurants. The price is a little complicated. It’s 1800 yen to enter, an additional 500 yen if you leave between midnight and 2 a.m., or 1000 yen if you choose to stay the night. Drive up Route 263, just past the expressway entrance, look for the waterslides sticking out the side of the building. If you are heading north, it is on the left-hand side of the road.

Nanayama

The Nanayama Onsen (七山温泉), on route 323 towards Karatsu, is one of the nicest in the prefecture. Go after 4 p.m., when the price drops from 700 yen to 500. The other, Mamushi Onsen, is named after the only poisonous snake native to Kyushu.

Kyuragi

Kyuragi also has an onsen, for what it’s worth. One ambivalent customer described it as “a big bathtub where old men will stare at your penis.” Entry is 500 yen.

Ouchi

Ouchi has one of the best hot springs in the area in Sari Onsen. The baths are housed in a large pyramid made of one-way glass: you can see out but they can’t see in. Open daily until 9 p.m., it’s a bargain at a mere 500 yen. Just recently, the eponymous Ouchi Onsen opened, offering a bathing alternative for the same price. Our sources say it’s fine, but a little sterile.

Kitahata

Kitahata is home to the peculiarly named Karatsu Onsen (唐津温泉). Nothing special, but nothing awful either. After you see the sign on Route 202 that welcomes you to Kitahata, take the first right and go down the hill. It’s the big building on your right.

Ureshino

Shii ba san so (椎葉山荘). High up in the mountains, it is an outdoor bath and surrounded by streams and mini-waterfalls. Its secluded location makes this the most popular onsen in town. Best visited at night on a full moon evening. Take Route 34 until you get to Route 6. Take Route 6 for about 500 m and take a left as the road is about to turn right. At this corner you should see a nondescript sign all in Japanese pointing you towards the onsen. Costs 1000 yen.

Taishoya Hotel (大正屋ホテル). The sign isn’t in English, so ask when you reach the town center. It has an indoor onsen with garden and a small outdoor one with carp (in a small stream running by, not in the onsen, of course!). Believed to be a holder of one of the top three positions in terms of water quality, Taishoya is within easy reach of the city center and has large bathing spots fitted with glass ceilings. Costs 1000 yen.

Kisenkan. Another top-three holder, Kisenkan is considerably smaller than most other spots, but boasts a cozy family atmosphere and silky smooth water. You will need to take your own towels. Costs 500 yen.

Warakuen. The big pull factor here is the Green Tea Onsen. It’s an outdoor bath, filled with green tea bags that apparently invigorate your skin. They also switch the male and female bathing areas on a monthly basis, so if your gender happens to be on the right, you’re in luck: it’s the bigger of the two. Costs 1000 yen.

Juli Platz Hot Spring Center. A huge complex full of various hot-spring related facilities to keep you occupied until you begin to shrivel up. The bathing area contains saunas, jacuzzis and baths of varying temperatures. Costs 800 yen (with gaijin card).

Motoyu Onsen. At this top-three onsen, you get access to high-grade water for very low prices. It’s usually quite crowded at weekends, but you’ll be definitely find ample space there on weekdays. You will need to take your own towels and soap. Costs 350 yen (approx.).

Wataya Hotel (和田屋ホテル). The tallest building in Ureshino, very easy to find, you can see its red cross in a circle from just about any vantage point in Ureshino. It has very nice indoor and outdoor onsens.

Sakura Hotel (桜ホテル). Another tall building that’s easy to spot. It has a big sign with neon pink flowers on it. Rooftop indoor and outdoor onsens.

Kanzaki

Yoshinogari Onsen is the area’s newest onsen, close to Yoshinogari Park. Has a variety of interesting outdoor and indoor baths. Korean style massages are also available here. To get there, get the train to Yoshinogari Koen station and take the bus from there. It’s located on Route 34, next to SATY.

Mitsuse

Yamabiko Onsen is located on the intersection of Route 263 and Route 21 in Mitsuse. 500 yen. Open from 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily, except the second Wednesday of the month.

Tosu

Have you heard that Saga is a good place for onsen, but not heard so much about Tosu? It’s a well preserved secret, but Tosu actually has some of the loveliest onsens around. Eight recently built individual bathhouses for two/three people await you in the middle of a wood. It’s located by a spring so afterwards you can sit round the fire eating marshmallows to cool down. It’s 1500 yen to rent for 50 minutes. To get there take Rt. 17 and then turn off into the mountains towards the dam. There is also another onsen near it, it caters for an older crowd and costs about 400 yen. The newly built gym/spa Casa della Vita also has an onsen, for members only. To get there take Route 3 heading for Kurume. If you continue down that road for a further 4 km, you’ll find a large onsen, open 24 hours (700 yen for 2 hours). Tosu and it’s surrounding area seems to be the new hot spot for onsen and leisure facilities. Recently in Nakabaru, just a short drive from Tosu along Route 34, a new onsen centre opened with 18 private boxes and community rooms. New places, young crowds, all yours to discover, if you dare to.

Kiyama

Aquafore. Onsen leisure plaza with pool, karaoke bar, videos, etc. It is very flashy and very expensive. Located on Route 3 on your way to Fukuoka just northwest of the Keyakidai station. Open 24 hours. Phone 0929-26-3900.

Kiyama Radium Onsen. Very small and very old. From Kiyama follow the signs for Ogori. Take the second right after the interchange (small store opposite RIC). Open 9 a.m.-8 p.m. everyday except Mondays.